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January 13, 2001 THE PHARMACY
Atmosphere ** Pricing: dinner for two, not including tax & tip: about $85 Atmosphere The Pharmacy in Southport is located in the historical district of this quaint little village. The exterior is charming, with menu boards on the folded placard, large windows facing the street, and big wooden doors opening directly into the dining room. On the left is the Pharmacy's bar and a small table for dining, right in front of a window. On the right, in front of the other window, is another table, this one with two inviting wing chairs. The wall on the right is a vast, high bulwark of rough exposed brick, upon which are hung an enormous mirror, a huge mantle from an old fireplace, an oil painting of a beach, placed oddly high, and a rack of wine bottles. The carpet is a swirled pattern of green. The ceiling is white tin, and it's cracked and peeling in several places. The two tables in front are probably the sweetest spots in the place, or perhaps it's the slightly elevated table for six at the rear of the dining room, by a fireplace that probably isn't used in this rather small area. The carpeting on the step that leads to the elevated area, the bathrooms and the kitchen is marked "STEP UP" with ugly florescent tape. The kitchen entrée is brightly lit and very busy, and rather distracting to diners facing that direction. The dining room is narrow, with space for two rows of tables, and servers scurrying back and forth, dodging diners and each other. A loft dining area contains about six tables for four. The ambient music is unobtrusive and tasteful. The place was quite chilly; several diners wore their coats through dinner. Food As we studied the appetizers on menus held in icy hands, we were naturally attracted to the seafood chowder ($7). This excellent fish soup, served with a generous crouton in a big white bowl, contained large cubes of salmon, several lovely shrimp, and a few squid rings swimming in a warming Mediterranean broth rich with seasonings, including just the right touch of rosemary. The list of a half-dozen starters included several salads ($5-$8); crab cakes in phyllo with three salsas ($8), the Pharmacy's signature dish; and an intriguing Stilton and walnut terrine served with orange-currant bread, field greens, and a champagne-pear vinaigrette ($8). We selected the Asian-spiced duck rolls with peanut sauce ($7), which consisted of four spring rolls in swirls of peanut and soy sauce, with delicate baby greens on the side. Spicy, salty, crispy, and rich, the rolls were very fresh and bright, served in a lovely presentation that was more subtle and satisfying than it first appeared. For entrees we selected one of the two specials offered: rack of lamb with portabella-barley risotto and white truffle oil ($25). Four ribs of large, lovely yearling lamb arrived perfectly medium-rare, as ordered, atop a risotto infused with the flavors of red onion and mushrooms. Along the side of the plate was an arc of grilled, seasoned radicchio. The combination of radicchio, lamb, and the complex risotto was startlingly satisfying. We also selected the Angus beef filet ($24) from the regular menu. The filet arrived on a huge white plate, nestled on a bed of wilted spinach, accompanied by the smoothest, creamiest mashed potatoes in the county. The ultimate comfort food: beef perfectly seasoned and tender, spinach tangy and fresh, potatoes absolutely lump-free. Other intriguing entrées include quail saltimbocca with fresh mozzarella and roast tomato polenta ($21), beer-battered flounder with potatoes & spinach ($21), and breast of duck over lentils and wilted greens with a sauce of sherry and dried cranberries ($22). The Pharmacy's short menu rotates weekly. Desserts From a list of three desserts and one special, all made in-house, we selected crème brulèe ($5) and the chocolate truffle torte ($6) both of which were wonderfully complemented by the fine Italian espresso ($3). The crème brulèe, served with a garnish of kiwi, raspberry, and a single yellow violet, was excellent. The torte was served on a plate with drizzled raspberry and mango sauce, fresh whipped cream, and garnished with kiwi, raspberries, powdered sugar, and fresh pansies. Both desserts were beautifully presented, and the torte in particular, its decadent bittersweetness balanced by those intense sauces, was absolutely perfect. Spirits According to owner Dan Menna, the Pharmacy's wine list is on the verge of major change; more wines by the glass will be offered in the future. Currently, just five, at $5-$6/glass, are available, with a thoughtful, careful selection of some two dozen bottles as well. Service The Pharmacy's staff, we noted with amusement, seems to consist entirely of handsome middle-aged men, sharply attired in white shirts, black ties, and long crisp aprons over black trousers. Tables were set nicely with white linen, china, and candles. Our server was very solicitous and checked on us frequently, as did the owner on several occasions. Empty plates were cleared promptly. Fat little loaves of bread, nicely dusted with flour, were served to us twice: the first, delivered upon our arrival, was cold, inside and out. The second was served at our request with our entrées. Its interior was lukewarm, and retained none of its heat in the chilly dining room. Summary The Pharmacy's physical elements aren't quite at the same level as the ethereal cuisine served in this funky little place. The building, which was constructed in 1887 and once served as a real pharmacy for this town, is a challenging space. We were left with the impression that more attention has been given to the food than to décor. But what extraordinary food! It's challenging and subtle, with creative melanges of diverse flavors adroitly and cleverly blended by a master chef. Our palates, not accustomed to the intriguing juxtapositions of those unconventionally combined flavors, had to work a little harder to understand them – but that extra effort made the results twice as rewarding. With each bite, our taste buds danced a little faster. By the time we finished, they were doing the lambada. The menu is short (15 items and 4 specials on the night of our visit) but each dish is prepared with the highest standards of quality and freshness, and all are obviously envisioned and executed as individual works of art. The love and attention lavished on each plate shines through – each entrée is served with its own unique side dishes, designed as perfect complements to the main event. In all instances, the quantities were absolutely perfect – there was just enough of every side dish, every garnish, to provide a sublime blend of flavors in each mouthful. Though the menu may seem limited, we would much rather be offered a few absolutely perfect dishes than a long list of meals that are unevenly conceived and inconsistently executed. Bravo to owners Dan and Kelli Menna, and executive chef Lisa Menna, for their vision and creativity, and their refusal to compromise the quality of their meals in an unnecessary quest for an impressively long menu. One last note: The water at the Pharmacy tasted pretty lousy to the palates of these two out-of-towners. Perhaps Southport residents are accustomed to it, or maybe a filter needs replacement. We'll ask for bottled water on our next visit. Can you think of a little-known restaurant with excellent food that you'd like to see reviewed in this column? We invite you to contact us at table42@wrightforyou.com! |
