|
December 16, 2000 GIOVANNI'S
Atmosphere ***1/2 Pricing: dinner for two, not including tax & tip: about $90 Atmosphere Entering Giovanni's is like walking into a pirate's cave – dark and cozy, with a tantalizing hint of the treasures to be found inside. The entry has a marble floor and a low, shiny black-lacquered ceiling. Walls throughout the restaurant are covered with photos of owner Giovanni Carandola and celebrity guests; there is no other artwork. The two dining rooms downstairs are furnished with comfortable, Old World elegance. A portrait of the owner hangs over the fireplace in the smoking section, a lovely little room with a half-dozen tables and one very intimate booth. The non-smoking section, while not quite as private, is very pretty, with walls of exposed brick, wooden shutters on the windows, and etched-glass lamps over every table. An enormous wine cabinet dominates one wall. Giovanni's has a piano bar, though the night of our visit the piped-in music consisted of an assortment of sweet old Italian ballads and bland modern Euro-pop. Food Almost immediately upon our arrival, we were served a hot, crusty loaf of bread. Accompanied by foil-wrapped pats of butter, the full loaf was the best we've ever encountered, baked on-site and more than ample for a party of two. Its steamy interior was lighter and tenderer than an angel food cake! As we feasted on our bread, we were happily overwhelmed by the variety, substance, and quantity of items on the menu. The extensive appetizer selection includes seven antipasti freddi (cold appetizers) such as melone prosciutto for $10.50 and carpaccio al parmigiano for $11.50, unfortunately unavailable on the night of our visit. We were delighted by the caprise classica ($10.50), thick slices of ripe tomato covered with generous slabs of pale, delicately flavored buffalo mozzarella, resting in pools of excellent olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and sprinkled with basil. Fresh, simple and outstanding – and perfect with that divine bread. Twelve antipasti caldi (hot appetizers) are also available. These range from bruschetta al pomodoro (based on their excellent bread, with tomato, oregano, provolone, olive oil and garlic, and a bargain at $5.50) to antipasto Giovanni for two ($16.50), a combination of stuffed vegetables and seafood. In addition, all twenty of their pasta dishes can be ordered as appetizers suitable for sharing. Finally, there are always several appetizer specials; these often include Giovanni's succulent lobster ravioli for $14 (available as a main course for $18.50), made in-house with fresh pasta and absolutely remarkable. Several soups are available ($4.50 for minestrone, pasta e fagoli, or the soup of the day) as well as salads, including the Caesar for two ($12.95) and the insalata di noci e Gorgonzola ($6.95), with walnuts and cheese. We calculated about fifty different ways to start a meal at Giovanni's. Constructing a meal of appetizers would be a rewarding and delicious adventure. Indeed, one could dine many times just on appetizers and other starters without repeating a dish. Pasta dishes are served à la carte and include gnocchi al ragu ($11.50) and tortelloni di spinaci e ricotta ($10.50), both made in-house, as well as many other intriguing pastas and sauces in various combinations. Several vegetarian pasta dishes are also offered, all for $14.50, and children's selections range from $5.50-$10.50. Most entrées are served with the house salad (a wonderful mixture which includes baby greens, perfectly ripe mushrooms, cubed mozzarella, and fresh olives) and a choice of pasta (sometimes penné, bowties, or fettucini) or vegetable (which alternates between potato casserole, asparagus, and sautéed zucchini/squash, or something similar). Entrées at Giovanni's are presented on huge metal platters in portions that would easily serve two people. There are many selections of crostacei con pasta (shellfish over linguine), tutto mare (seafood), vitello (veal), pollo (chicken), manzo (beef), and dalla griglia (grilled selections), and Giovanni's always offers four or five daily special entrées. Scale fish, by the way, are served with head and tail in beautiful simplicity. We tried the risotto al frutti di mare ($18.50), the only rice dish on the menu. Rice was introduced to Italy in the late Middle Ages by Arabs who dominated Sicily and parts of the Southern mainland, but residents of the marshy Po Valley to the north made the grain a base for a wide variety of classic meals. The preparation of risotto requires a good bit of attention, and Giovanni's staff rose to the challenge. Our entrée consisted of a bed of delicate, creamy round-grain rice topped with shrimp, scallops, calamari, clams, mussels (not listed as an ingredient on the menu but a welcome addition), white wine and parsley. The flavors of the shellfish were conveyed powerfully to the rice; portions were generous, except for the single jumbo shrimp. Though characteristic of the dish, the stewed shellfish were a bit done for our taste, but of excellent quality and freshness. Hearty and bold, the vitello scallopine alla Livornese ($18.50) was a study in complex flavors, consisting of three superb veal medallions layered with eggplant, cheese, red peppers, and covered in green peas. The dish was served with a huge portion of penné covered with an elegantly simple sauce – fresh tomatoes, chopped onions, and herbs. On past visits, we've greatly enjoyed a special entrée made with langoustines. If this dish is available on the night of your visit, do try it, for it is extraordinary. Desserts No house-made desserts were available on the night of our visit; cheesecake, crème caramel, and a few others are made on-site when Giovanni has time. We selected the very good tiramisu ($5.50) with espresso ($3), and spumoni ($5) with cappuccino ($5.50), and decided that the excellent coffee overshadows a somewhat weak dessert menu. Spirits With over 100 selections from around the world, Giovanni's wine list is enormous, and will delight even the most demanding oenophile. High-end vintages include a Chateaux Margaux ($260/bottle) and a selection of rare Amarones. A few wines by the glass ($4.75-$9) are offered, and a dozen after-dinner selections are available, including Strega, Sambuca, Grappa, and several old Ports. Service Tables are covered with white and burgundy linen and set with white china trimmed in black, with Giovanni's name in gold script. Giovanni's multi-cultural staff is well-trained and professional, clad in classic black and white. Female servers wear skirts (some shorter than others) and male servers wear black ties. All are friendly and responsive. Summary A brilliant jewel of a restaurant, Giovanni's offers the freshest ingredients and a huge selection of dishes and wines. Because of the "fresh daily policy", some items may not be available (like the carpaccio when we visited) but this ensures all dishes are of the highest quality. "Giovanni recommends that you study our menu carefully," reads the front page of the bill of fare. Take your host's advice to heart and examine the wonderful menu at a unhurried pace as you chat with friends and enjoy the atmosphere (and the bread). Few restaurants in this area offer such comfortable, leisurely dining, and fewer still can match the range of very simple to very complex dishes. Regrettably, the space limitations of our column don't allow us to describe Giovanni's incredible cuisine in more detail. You're just going to have to taste for yourselves. By the way, this is Giovanni's last season in his current location. He's busy building a new restaurant on the north end which he promises will be even better. We can hardly wait! |
