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December 2, 2000 NANCE'S
Atmosphere *** Pricing: a double roast of oysters with all the trimmings, for two: about $40 Atmosphere The bustle and chatter of families and groups filling the enormous open dining room at Nance's is the perfect counterpoint for rolled-up sleeves, the sight of big steaming pots of oysters, and the smell of the sea. There's a wonderful view of the marsh through the large windows. The noise level is quite high, because people are taking an active part in the procurement of their food, having a great time, chatting and shucking oysters with varying levels of skill and enthusiasm. There is deck seating outside, but no section for non-smokers. The dining room is well ventilated, though, and the faint smell of smoke is disguised by the unmistakable fragrance of those oysters. This is not a fancy place. The floor is old turquoise and cream linoleum. The walls are wood paneled and hung with old boating implements – driftwood, fishing weights, long oars. The lighting in the vast, noisy dining room is fluorescent and harsh. The simple wooden tables are set with little towers of condiments - Texas Pete, tartar sauce, and Hunt's ketchup - and built with holes in the middle for discarding oyster shells into the buckets below. The china's real thick and the flatware's very thin. But Nance's is a slice of pure Americana, and we wouldn't have it any other way.
Food Though most folks know them as hush puppies, Nance's calls them corn dodgers, and they arrived at the table moments after we did, fresh and very hot, accompanied by honey butter. (The first basket is on the house; additional baskets are $2.) We munched happily on the little goodies while we waited for our appetizers. Each appetizer was served by itself on a plate with a tiny sprig of parsley. Our single crab cake ($6.50) was surprisingly large, but we soon realized that it was about 85% stuffing (and uninspired stuffing at that). The soft-shell crab ($6.95) was good but not outstanding, quite small and a bit overcooked. Served with a small bowl of tasty buttermilk dressing, the blooming onion ($4.95) was succulent, but it hadn't been peeled carefully, and its tough outer layer was inedible. The double roast of oysters ($24.95) is the reason for the crowd. With a flourish of steam and excitement, it was placed on the corner of our table for two of our party to share. The massive metal pot was accompanied by a basket of assorted individually wrapped crackers, big red plastic cafeteria trays, plastic bowls to fill with shucked oysters and oyster liquor, melted margarine, oyster knives, lemon, tiny oyster forks, a roll of paper towels, and our server's earnest inquiry: 'Can I get you folks anything else?' The oysters themselves were outstanding, more salty than sweet and savory as ever, steamed perfectly in their own juices to plump doneness and not at all overcooked. The oysters arrived at the same time as the salad that was offered with the steak. Basic but fresh, the salad included ripe tomato and cucumber with rings of red onion over iceberg lettuce. The steak and the shrimp arrived in good time, after we'd devoured about half the double roast. Soft, slow-cooked baked potato and fried onion rings were served with the steak ($16.50), tender aged beef with good flavor. Good French fries and cole slaw accompanied the creek shrimp ($14.95), which were very fresh and sweet. Lightly battered and deep-fried, they were almost as good as the oysters. We were rather dismayed to see the basket of little plastic commercial tubs of margarine and sour cream. We don't mind the packaging, but the addition of some little tubs of real butter would have been welcome! The limited Landlubber's menu includes only steaks and fried chicken (prices range from $6.75-$16.50). However, Nance's features an extensive range of traditional fresh seafood selections, including steamed clams, fish platters with flounder and grouper, the obligatory seafood platter, and several crab offerings. A half-dozen specialties of the house are listed across the top of the menu ($16.95-$20.95); these range from a pound of Alaskan snow crab legs to a pair of 8-oz. lobster tails. Nance's offers a few good down-home side dishes ranging from coleslaw or applesauce ($1) to a tossed salad with shrimp ($8.95). Try the Early Bird Special: buy one entrée or roast and get the second (of equal value or less) for half price. There are also some bargains for seniors and children ranging from $4 to $14.95. Desserts Three deserts were offered on the night of our visit: Key lime pie, coconut pie, and chocolate cake. We chose the pies ($2.50), fresh and homemade but not outstanding, and coffee ($1.25), served very fresh and better than we had hoped. Spirits Nance's offers an abbreviated selection of wines, mostly Californians; all are available by the glass and range in price from $3.00 - $7. A few higher-end bottles for those who want to chase their oysters with something fancy are also offered (Louis Jadot Pouilly Fuisse at $32 per bottle, for example). Domestic canned beer is offered at $2.50, and imported beer is available for $2.75, but most of the oyster eaters are gulping draft beer or sweet tea by the pitcherful. At $7 for a pitcher of Miller Lite, and $1.25 for a bottomless glass of tea, they've got the right idea. Service The waitstaff is too busy to give slavish attention to every patron, but the servers (dressed in t-shirts and running shoes for speedy delivery of those oyster vats!) are friendly and helpful, quick to leave a pitcher of tea or grab an empty plate. No matter how full the enormous dining room, they check back often to make sure you don't run out. These folks may not be trained to serve haute cuisine, but they don't need to be - they're fast, efficient, and very effective. Summary It's all about the oysters at Nance's. This locally owned and operated restaurant offers the very best and freshest local cluster oysters in season (and quality selects from Appalachicola during the off-season). Each roast is perfectly steamed and blazing hot. Nance's offers genuine low-country charm - the fresh, hot 'corn dodgers', the basket of crackers, the plastic tray, the hole in the table… even the scuffed old linoleum is appropriate, for who wants to worry about dropping shells on a nice carpet? Nance's is certainly unpretentious, and otherwise a two-and-a-half star restaurant at best. But their oyster roast is world-class, four-star cuisine served in an atmosphere that is perfectly complimentary to wrasslin' with bivalves. Look through those big windows and you might catch a glimpse of oyster pickers harvesting tomorrow's dinner from Nance's very own beds, 200 yards away. You could hardly do better than to visit Nance's for some of the local oysters right now, or during any month that contains the letter "R". Nance's roast is a Murrells Inlet tradition that has endeared this institution to generations of locals and tourists alike, and for good reason: they are serving up the South with every steaming bucket. |
