|
November 18, 2000 THE RICE PADDY
Atmosphere *** Pricing: Dinner for two, not including tax and tip: about $80 Atmosphere On Georgetown's Front Street waterfront, tucked into the corner of a parking lot, you'll find the Rice Paddy. The restaurant itself isn't marked; look for the sign on the fence in front of the parking lot. Walk past the shops and take a peek inside the busy kitchen, filled with young people in a variety of culinary activities. After your meal, ignore the construction and enjoy a promenade on the boardwalk; there's a splendid view of sailboats and the city in the distance. The Rice Paddy's dining room has lots of windows on both sides, hung with knotted white muslin curtains. At night, the lighting is intimate and subtle; a candle and fresh autumn flower enhance the charm of the pretty tables, painted with starfish, lobster claws and oyster shells. Ambient music played at a perfect volume, though the conversation of several dozen diners in the small room made things a bit noisy. Place settings were humble but serviceable, with linen napkins and simple china. Watch for drafts under ceiling vents! There's a fireplace at one end of the long room and a bar and small smoking section at the other. The door in the bar opens on the Rice Paddy's waterfront dining area, with open air seating for a few dozen. It's pleasant and relaxed, but the view through the dining room windows is just as good. Food After a rather lengthy wait, we ordered appetizers from a seafood-rich selection of standards and specials. We considered goat cheese croustades with tapenade and smoked salmon ($6.50) and seared scallops on braised cabbage with crumbled bacon and tarragon vinaigrette (from the specials menu, where prices range from $7.95-9.95). We finally decided on linguine with country ham, sun dried tomatoes, and cream ($8.95) and the soft-shell crab special ($9.95 for the appetizer; order them as a main course and get two for $20.95). Our server brought us each a hot little loaf of fresh bread with a delicately crunchy crust, and then our appetizers. The linguine, with its chewy/creamy textures and smoky tang, was interesting and quite good. The soft-shell crab was pristine and joyous. When we tasted it, we found ourselves wishing we had ordered it as a main course. Cleaned and dressed out immaculately, the crab was deep-fried, drizzled with a perfect lemon sauce and so succulent we devoured every particle of the big, meaty crustacean. If you visit the Rice Paddy in soft-shell season, make it a point to order at least one of these beauties. For that matter, visit in the upcoming shad roe season for a real Low Country treat! We were a bit surprised to learn that all salads were served with the same raspberry vinaigrette. On our first taste of the simple mix of excellent mixed greens, bleu cheese, pine nuts, and red onions, we forgot any objections we might have had to this authoritarian salad policy. The blissfully fruity vinaigrette was an ideal balance for those decadent pine nuts and that pungent cheese. Our entrées arrived with another pair of the piping hot loaves. We chose linguine with shrimp, scallops, tomato and basil with a cream and white wine sauce ($19.95) from a list of several attractive specials. The generous portion of good pasta with colossal scallops and juicy shrimp was topped with fresh tomato, and covered in a wonderful rich sauce containing tomato, basil, and green peppercorns. The only jarring notes were the thick tough strands of leek, several of which were downright inedible. The pork with hoisin marinade ($16.95), an attractive arrangement of four thin tenderloin medallions, was a slightly salty but tasty attempt at standard Chinese char-siu pork. It was accompanied by a pile of unseasoned butter beans and a bland wild rice pilaf. We jealously watched other diners enjoy small crocks of squash casserole, and wished we'd arrived before the kitchen ran out of those good-looking little dishes. Next time, we'll try the roast rack of lamb moutarde ($21.95), pan-fried quail with country ham, cream, and grits ($18.95), or the house specialty, snapper piccata ($17.95). There's always a list of a half-dozen intriguing specials, too. On the night of our visit, we were offered sautéed salmon with artichoke hearts and tomato basil cream, molasses glazed duck with a dark rum sauce, and grilled dolphin with a tomatilla-avocado salsa. Prices for specials range from $19.95-$23.95. Desserts The desserts were awesome and really a bargain at the price – all are in the $4-$5 range. Homemade peppermint ice cream with chocolate sauce is a Rice Paddy standard, as is the crème brulèe, luxurious and delightful, prepared in a ramekin with a lovely crust of caramelized brown sugar over cool, creamy vanilla heaven. The fresh apple-cranberry crisp, served with good ice cream, could not have been better. We later heard rumors about a lemon mousse with raspberry puree, served some nights but not on the evening of our visit. Oh, how we drooled! Is Georgetown too far to drive for a single dessert? Perhaps we'll order an espresso, too. At $2.50, the Rice Paddy's is rich and strong, a great ending to a satisfying meal. Spirits Though a small selection of French appellations appears on the wine list, the Rice Paddy favors the Californians, and particularly Chardonnays and Merlots. We tried a Folie à Deux merlot ($7/glass), rather sharp and spicy on the finish. We also enjoyed a glass of Herman Wente Reserve Chardonnay ($6.50), full-bodied and layered with aromas of tropical fruit and vanilla. A good selection of domestic beers and imported ales is also available. Service When we called to make our reservations, we inquired and were told that attire at the restaurant was "nice casual". However, gentlemen visiting the Rice Paddy will feel more comfortable if they wear jackets with their chinos. The staff of the Rice Paddy is knowledgeable and pleasant, with little time to chat as they maneuver through the busy dining room. We observed that servers do not volunteer prices for specials unless asked specifically to do so. This undoubtedly makes the process more efficient, but could mean some unpleasant surprises for frugal diners at the end of a meal. After a slightly inattentive beginning, our servers were quick to arrive with our food and remove our empty dishes. Summary After 16 years, the Rice Paddy has become a Georgetown institution. Partners Susan Hibbs and Susan Felder obtain most of their fish and seafood in Murrell's Inlet and Charleston, and they only purchase whole fish, which is cut in the Rice Paddy's kitchen. We liked being able to look at the kitchen from Front Street, and noted with pleasure that a prep cook took the time to wave at us. The appetizers are either outstanding, as in the case of that soft-shell crab, or interesting enough to justify their cost, as in the case of the linguine and country ham. The entrées, and in particular the fish and seafood specials, are well conceived and deftly executed, though the hoisin pork fell short of our expectations. We'd like to see more attention given to those side dishes, and perhaps some consideration given to their suitability for the entrées they accompany. However, we were, for the most part, delighted with our Rice Paddy experience, a meal with several innovative variations on the classic Low Country theme.
|
