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May 5, 2001 RADD DEW'S
Atmosphere: *** Pricing: Buffet for two, not including tax or tip: $16 Atmosphere If you're searching for authentic country charm, you'll find it at Radd Dew's. From the family photographs framed and hung near the cash register, to the "pig-orabilia" displayed proudly on every available surface, this restaurant's décor elicited big grins of delight from everybody in our party. At least two rooms in this structure are devoted to the delivery and consumption of barbecue. The smaller "front" room contains the entrance, cash register, buffet line and ten or so tables. The larger dining room also has its share of country kitsch, plus a great sign that says "Sit Long, Talk Much". Long shelves near the ceilings hold antique bottles and old kettles. The walls are covered with a variety of ephemera, including a pressed brass tableau of the Last Supper, old tin gasoline signs, and an impressive collection of refrigerator magnets. An ancient cross-cut saw hangs above the door between the rooms. There are big red and white checked tiles on the floor, and blue and white café curtains at the windows. A single deer head is mounted on a plaque and tastefully hung, like the family photos, in a place of honor. Over the drink station there is an arrangement of Christmas tree lights with dangling plywood pigs painted black with red polka dots. Tables are covered with red formica and equipped with rolls of paper towels and two flavors of Texas Pete heat: a jar of very innocent-looking tabasco peppers and a bottle of standard fiery sauce. There's also a big squeeze bottle of Radd Dew's own barbecue sauce. The heavy, bolted-down diner furniture has a functional solidity that has served several generations of Conway for more than thirty-five years. For many of these folks, a visit to Radd Dew's is as much a social event as a culinary adventure. The family-oriented place is noisy and boisterous, with children grouping up and sitting at their own tables, people moving around and visiting with one another, and constant heavy traffic to and from the buffet. No alcohol is served.
Food Big piles of hot, minced vinegary Carolina barbecue, sweet-sauced pulled pork, fresh-fried hush puppies and fresh coleslaw are the cornerstones of a feast at Radd Dew's. The supporting cast of perennial Southern favorites includes an excellent, heavily seasoned chicken bog, homemade sausage, white rice, liver hash gravy, candied yams, fresh fried fatback, apple Betty, banana pudding, baked beans, corn on the cob, fried and barbecued chicken, peaches, French fries, and mountains of falling-off-the-bone barbecue ribs. The price for the buffet is $8 ($4 for children 10 and under, children under 4 are free) and includes everything. Beverages include the standard pop favorites, plus lemonade and sweet tea. The shredded barbecue is darned good, vinegary and tangy with wonderful flavor. The chunky 'cue has more tomato in it, and is also superb. Most of the side dishes range from good to very good, particularly the hush puppies and that homemade sausage. There are a few exceptions: the corn was soggy, the fries were nothing special, and the apple Betty was a bit too sweet and not as crunchy as it might have been. Take-out orders are dished up from the food on the buffet, and sandwiches are made from the buffet's supply of barbecue. Prices range from $5.75 for chunky barbecue to $2.25 for items like candied yams, banana pudding or coleslaw. Sandwiches are $2.70 if the buffet seems like too much for you. You can also get a meat and three sides to eat in or to go for $6.50. But if you're eating in, why not spend the extra buck fifty and get the full buffet?
Service As this is a buffet, the service is do-it-yourself. You serve yourself at the buffet line, fix your own drinks at the beverage station, and clean off your table when you're done. The staff is mostly concerned with wiping off tables and keeping the sweet tea and hush puppies flowing. While the attention paid to the dining room is minimal, the buffet is watched over at every moment. The staff is directed carefully to ensure that everything is as it should be. Nothing is allowed to run out, and certainly nothing sits around long enough to get old. Summary Radd Dew's Fencing Company is run in the same place as Radd Dew's Bar-B-Que Pit. In fact, their answering machine tells you that if you need anything in the way of fencing or barbecue, just leave a message and they'll call you back. Almost inevitably, you'll find yourself in a long line at Radd Dew's, for this is a popular place in this community. But the queue moves very fast. In spite of the crowd, we were warmly and graciously greeted by the lovely silvery-haired host and cashier. We found out later that she is Mrs. Betty Dew, widow of restaurant founder Radd Dew, who passed away in 1983. She's also the mother of Jim Dew, who runs the place and watches that buffet so diligently. There's an element of faith and continuity here that is sweetly comforting. The menu board over the buffet proclaims THANK YOU JESUS; a "hidden-painting-within-a-painting" print contains a scene of… well, we're not going to give it away; you'll have to go look at it yourself. This is a locals' place; almost everybody knows everybody else, and many diners are greeted as friends and family. After a few visits, you will be, too. For nine months each year, Radd Dew's is only open two days a week: Friday and Saturday from 5-9 PM. During January, February, and March, however, it opens up on Thursdays and offers chitterling feasts. If you're not ready to take a quick trip into Conway for one of the best barbecue experiences around, you can find Radd Dew barbecue in a few other select locations. For the hot stuff, try Ned's in Aynor and the Tastee Freez and Rivertown Ice Cream Shop in Conway. For barbecue that you can reheat and serve for dinner, try either Piggly Wiggly in Myrtle Beach or the one in Conway, or the IGAs in both Aynor and North Conway. You'll even find it at benefits, fundraisers, and catered events. We suggest, however, that you go directly to the source. When the traffic's good, the drive from Myrtle Beach to Conway is very short. When it's bad, you've got something wonderful to look forward to! A few last words of advice, however: powder your nose before you leave your house; there's only one bathroom per gender here, and sometimes, with all those kids running around, the lines get long. And please be prepared for some serious eating.
Can you think of a little-known restaurant with excellent food that you'd like to see reviewed in this column? We invite you to contact us at table42@wrightforyou.com! |
