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March 24, 2001 THE PARSON'S TABLE
Food *** Pricing: dinner for two, not including tax & tip: about $80 Atmosphere History buffs and folks who like a little stained glass with their haute cuisine will adore the Parson's Table, located at the corner of Hwy. 17 and McCorsley Avenue in Little River. With its rich history and collection of antique stained glass windows, this is one of the most fascinating restaurants on the Grand Strand. The main dining room, built in 1885, was once the home of the original Little River Methodist Church. The place is filled with marvelous examples of Southern architectural history: chandeliers from a Baptist church in Mullins, a Tiffany lamp from Atlanta, beveled glass panels from a mansion in Lumberton, and flooring from a South Carolina farm house built in the 1850s. Gorgeous old wood, carousel horses, beautiful prints, and exquisite old lamps are the most interesting elements in the dining rooms. Oh, yes – and the stained glass windows, back-lit to bring out their full glory, are remarkable. Tables are set with red linen and plaid squares centered over each one, with candles, fresh rosebuds, and crystal sugar bowls. Several cozy alcoves in different sizes can accommodate a few couples, or even a small group. Try to get a table in the main dining room or one of the little rooms on the right, each of which has a unique character. The long narrow room to the left should be avoided. Between the barren appearance of the blank acoustic panels, and the excessive noise that the panels haven't quite eliminated, this room isn't nearly as grand as the others. The entrée of the restaurant contains a waiting area, the walls of which are hung with various awards for excellence, and a strange little area in which tourists can purchase souvenirs. The latter seemed a little tacky, but we reluctantly suppose that such things are inevitable.
Food As we perused the menu, our waiter presented us with a plate of sesame and water crackers and a small crock of delicious herbed cheese. From the fifteen appetizer selections (including a special and a soup du jour) we chose the she-crab soup ($4.50), which we happily found to be the genuine article. Its extremely concentrated crab wasn't buried in cream, but revealed with sherry and spices. We also tried the brie en brioche with melba sauce and toasted almonds ($8.50), a tasty encasement beautifully presented in a pool of purple raspberry melba sauce, with Granny Smith apples, slivered strawberries, and more water crackers. The house salad was tossed tableside in a portion that would easily have served four. It consisted of assorted fresh greens with julienned radish, carrot, and red pepper, tossed with a lovely sweet vinaigrette of oil and balsamic vinegar, and was served with a basket of bread: hot little white rolls and sweet cornbread at room temperature. After the salad we were served two piping hot demitasses of consommé, fresh and bright with beef, carrot, celery, and onion, all flavors distinct and delicious. The menu provides a good range of flavors ranging from several excellent beef dishes to the elaborate veal and shrimp Bombay ($17.95): sauteed veal and shrimp simmered with curry, celery, tomato, onion, mango, apricot, apple, coconut milk, and consommé, garnished with toasted coconut, almonds, and scallions. There are a dozen intriguing fish and seafood selections, a couple of which combine surf and turf quite creatively. At $18.50, for example, quail with oysters and bacon consists of two broiled semi-boneless quail wrapped in bacon, served with leeks, shiitake mushrooms, oysters, and country ham in a sherry cream sauce. We decided on one of the chef's specialties: cashew-encrusted rack of lamb ($22.95). The eight tender young chops were served in a pool of very rich roasted shallot Madeira glaze and mint jelly. Aromatic with rosemary and crunchy with the thick cashew crust, the lamb was delightful, but the mashed potatoes were not up to the standards of the entrée, and the mint jelly was more apple than mint. We also tried one of the nightly specials: Atlantic tripletail in a subtly wonderful Mediterranean sauce with butter-soft artichoke hearts. The fish was a little dry, but the sauce was superb; it was served with a mild rice pilaf. Both entrees were served with a sauté of green beans, cauliflower, mushrooms, broccoli, and yellow squash – all fresh but rather boring. Desserts The Parson's Table offers a generous assortment of goodies for every after-dinner sweet tooth. Our chocolate mousse ($3.50) was served in a tall parfait glass with a pool of Kahlua at the bottom; the heavenly clouds of mousse and fresh whipped cream were covered with chocolate shavings. It was perfect with the first-rate house Kona coffee. (Espresso and cappuccino were unavailable; our server told us that the machine had already been broken down for the night.) The rum pie chantilly ($5.50), on the other hand, was ill-conceived and poorly executed, a pie crust filled with cake and a bit of custard, topped with whipped cream and served with a sauce that appeared to be pure Grand Marnier. The cake was dry, without enough custard or liquor to properly moisten it, and chilled into flavorlessness. Spirits We tried an Italian Cavit pinot grigio ($4.50), moderately complex with flavors and aromas of anise and lime, with our baked brie. With our lamb, we enjoyed a voluptuous St. Supery '98 merlot ($7), spicy with blackberry and fresh herbs, moderately complex with soft tannins. Sevice We were visited by no less than four staff members, all of whom were attentive to our needs, delivering the courses at our pace and encouraging a leisurely and relaxing dinner. Our impeccably professional server, clad in a white oxford shirt and tie with dark trousers and a long apron, was intimately familiar with the menu and offered several helpful suggestions (and a tale or two about his fishing career). Every effort was made to enhance our experience. Summary Every dinner at the Parson's Table is a set piece consisting of that outstanding soft herbed cheese; appetizers, if desired; a fine house salad; rolls and cornbread; an excellent consommé; and an entrée with mixed vegetable and starch. Everything we sampled was outstanding - except the potato served with the lamb, and the vegetable served with both entrees. They were disappointingly uninspired, and therefore in stark contrast with all the wonderful things we tasted. We were happy to see that the Parson's Table menu includes the sommelier's suggestions for wines to accompany each entrée! They make it easy for people who might ordinarily be intimidated by a long list of vintages. There's also a list of monthly wine specials, and we liked that, too. The desserts we tried were split fifty-fifty between sublime and inferior, but we are confident that there are several more excellent selections on the menu. With good values for high-end cuisine served by outstanding staff in a beautiful setting, the Parson's Table has much to offer a discriminating diner. Can you think of a little-known restaurant with excellent food that you'd like to see reviewed in this column? We invite you to contact us at table42@wrightforyou.com! |
