VITTORIA'S ITALIAN RESTAURANT
4109 Walnut Street
Loris, SC
Telephone: 756-0840

Food ***
Atmosphere **
Service **1/2
(out of four stars)

Pricing: dinner for two, not including tax & tip: about $30

Atmosphere

As soon as you step through the doors of Vittoria's, you'll feel as if you've been warped far north of the Mason-Dixon line. Close your eyes and listen to the accents of the server and kitchen staff, and you'll swear you're not in Loris anymore. Many of the patrons are obvious imports, as well – check out the fellow with the New Jersey ball cap; listen to the chatter of the women sharing a plate of baked manicotti in the corner. Vittoria's smells like a Yankee pizzeria, and its d้cor reflects the colors of the Italian flag – white walls, green carpeting, and burgundy vinyl tablecloths. Tables are set with pink nylon rosebuds in bud vases, white paper placemats, and flatware wrapped in paper napkins. While it doesn't take you all the way to Italy, this little place can transport you at least as far as Brooklyn.

With seating for about 30 diners, the place is so tiny that you can see just about everything that's happening here no matter where you sit, through the windows in the wall between the kitchen and dining areas. The staff skillfully slings freshly made dough around the kitchen as wonderful tunes play on the stereo. The ambient music is perfectly authentic here – tunes from some of Italy's best-loved old crooners and a few of its exports, including Ol' Blue Eyes himself.

The atmosphere at Vittoria's will soon be changing, as owners Nick and Thea Petrone plan to move to a new location on Hwy. 701 in Loris some time this summer. A good thing, too: they have really outgrown the space they're in now!

Food

We took a large group when we dined at Vittoria's, and we were able to sample many of the dishes on the short but interesting menu. Our leisurely dining experience began with the garlic bread and salad included with all chicken, veal, and pasta entrees. The garlic bread, baked in-house, was hot and crusty, and the salads were composed of fresh mixed greens with cherry tomatoes. The house dressing - a bright fresh pesto of parsley, basil and garlic so thick it had to be scooped out of the little paper cup in which it was served and literally spread onto the salad – was delicious.

We tried the veal parmigiana (10.95), a true-to-form pizzeria specialty. The dish was fresh and served in a large portion, and although the generous slab of veal seemed a little tough, it was very tasty. The spaghetti served as a side dish appeared to be a fairly good quality pasta, but it was cooked a bit past al dente. The eggplant parmigiana (9.95), baked in a cask and served in a large portion, was superb, as were the housemade ravioli (7.95), stuffed generously with fresh ricotta and garnished with fresh parsley. We also tried the chicken Florio (10.95), a chicken breast nestled on prosciutto and a bed of spinach, served atop fettuccini with Alfredo sauce. The chicken was succulent and the sauce was creamy and subtly delicious, though the spinach seemed a bit overcooked. The simple baked lasagna (8.95) was layered with sauce, pasta, and ricotta, with a layer of mozzarella on top.

The pizza served at Vittoria's may well be the best in Horry County. The dough is made fresh daily in an enormous stand mixer, visible through the window into the kitchen. Pies are large and wonderful, with a perfect ratio of sauce to cheese. The mozzarella used here is tangy and a bit salty, and the sauce is fresh and bright. Pies range from $7 for a small to $9 for a large, and toppings, at $1 each, include the usual standards (the most exotic are anchovies and jalapeno peppers). Strombolis (4.95) and calzones (4.95 for ham, pepperoni, or spinach) are also made with the wonderful fresh dough, and two of our party happily split a ham calzone and found it delightful.

Desserts

The desserts available on the night of our visit differed somewhat from the list on the menu. Of the several desserts offered (all 2.75), none are made in-house, but the tartuffo, a ball of vanilla and chocolate gelato with a center of maraschino cherries and almonds covered with a shell of dark chocolate, was luscious and generous enough to share. The tiramisu was unavailable, so we tried the Napoleon, layers of flaky pastry and cream filling which was a little too sweet.

Spirits

Five domestic beers, at 1.75 per bottle, are available at Vittoria's. Five wine selections are also offered, at 2.50 per glass. The pinot grigio from Italian vintner Castellani was delicate and nicely textured, with notes of citrus and almond. The merlot, also from Castellani, had a velvety taste and a nice fruity perfume. The Petrones plan to offer a larger selection of Italian wines in their new location.

Summary

The authentic New York pizza pie is the shining centerpiece of this tiny little restaurant's menu. Like the calzone and stromboli, it is perfectly framed by the wonderful dough made fresh each morning. The superb house dressing, made with parsley and basil, is very interesting and well worth a try. Our favorite pasta selections include the flawless eggplant parmesan and the fresh ravioli.

There are several excellent deals here for those who are budget-conscious. The Early Bird special from 4:30 – 5:30 is $2 off all entrees, making any of the pasta, veal or chicken dishes a true bargain. The lunch specials are noteworthy, as well; an interesting pasta selection is offered each weekday for $5.95.

The Petrones have a devoted clientele in this little town, and their reputation is well-deserved. They work very hard to create dishes that satisfy the palates of the diners who visit here. According to Thea Petrone, many regular customers ask her to concoct special dishes just for them, which she obligingly does; some of these dishes will appear on the expanded menu in their new restaurant. We are eager to sample the cuisine that this talented Italian-American couple will create in a larger kitchen. In their current location, with its tiny cooking area, they are able to perform miracles.

Can you think of a little-known restaurant with excellent food that you'd like to see reviewed in this column? We invite you to contact us at table42@wrightforyou.com!