by Caroline Wright Beyond Poi Fall 2003
When George Mavro was honored as one of the Best Chefs In America by the James Beard Foundation earlier this year, it only confirmed what plenty of locals already knew: his Honolulu restaurant should be at the top of every meeting planner's list.
The small restaurant sits quietly on a corner in an urban and mostly residential area of Honolulu. The décor is tasteful but not exceptional: snowy linens at every table; big china plates with wide dark borders; exotic little blooms. There's not much of a view-in fact, a frosted wave etched into the windows helps keep the curious world at bay. Yet a meal at Chef Mavro (opened in 1996 and named for chef/owner George “Mavro” Mavrothalassitis) is the kind people remember all their lives. From the first bite, casual diners eagerly await the next. Epicures are left speechless with delight at the originality of Mavro's vision. Mildred Amico, program director of the James Beard Foundation in New York, believes that the secret of Mavro's success lies in the combination of his technique, developed in his native France, and his raw materials, mostly local Hawai`i ingredients. “His food evolves all the time,” she exclaims. “It's never static. It's always fresh and new.” On the first of Mavro's visits to the James Beard House in New York City, where chefs from all over the country come to cook at over 400 events each year, he made the long journey with coolers full of local ingredients. “He went out to the airport to pick up a fish that was overnighted from Hawai`i for dinner,” recalls Amico. “I was very impressed that he brought so much of Hawai`i when he came. I was even more impressed when I tasted the food.” The rocky red soil of the islands and the deep emerald waters around them yield extraordinary building blocks. There's Kahuku sweet corn, delicious raw on the cob, and wait till you see what this fellow does with it; Waimea baby lettuce so tender and delicate that eating it seems unspeakably decadent; tomatoes grown by a farmer who just about delivers them one at a time. Locally grown vanilla, vintage chocolate, watercress. And the fish! Moi, prawns, opakapaka, onaga, lobsters--all from Mavro's backyard.
|
From Hawai`i Meetings+Events
|
|
The results are exotic, flavor-packed fusions, such as an appetizer of Sautéed Hudson Valley Foie Gras with Ginger, Poached Pear and Julienne of Savoy Cabbage; entrées including Onaga Medallions, Sea Urchin Foam and Leek Étuvée or Prime Rib Eye of Beef Crusted with Pancetta and served with North Shore Sweet Corn, Tender Spinach and Anchovy-Tarragon Tomato Sauce; topped off, perhaps, with a dessert of Lilikoi Malasadas (a Portuguese doughnut, Hawaiian-style) served with Guava Coulis and Pineapple-Coconut Ice Cream. As one of the founding fathers of Hawai`i regional cuisine, he is an innovator who isn't afraid to challenge, question, and change. This, after all, is the chef who eliminated the warmer from the banquet facility at the Halekulani, O`ahu's legendary resort hotel, to serve fresh and unexpected meals à la minute to groups of 200 at a time. This is the same fellow who last year began turning his ovens down to 325 degrees, over anxious protests of his kitchen staff, because he realized that food cooked in a restaurant oven's standard 500 degrees might be good-but it would never be great. The wine pairings might prove to be his greatest innovation of all. “Go to a traditional restaurant, and the sommelier will advise you, 'Oh, the lobster? You'll have the Chardonnay, of course. The beef? You'll want Cabernet Sauvignon.' No!” Mavro says emphatically, his precise English delivered rapid-fire with the most outrageous Gallic accent. “It depends on the sauce, the garnish, on too many ingredients!. When you order the right wine with your food, it is a fantastic moment.”
 Mavro doesn't force his wine selections on his patrons. He even admits his own personal preferences aren't necessarily most appropriate for his recipes. Listed below every dish on his tiny, careful menu (four appetizers, six entrées, three desserts, and a cheese plate) is a single selection of wine, offered by glass or bottle as a “pairing,” in specific combination with the dish above it. When Mavro changes his menu, four or five times a year, he invites about 25 staff members and lucky bon vivants to participate in a blind tasting, “a democratic process,” according to the press kit, to identify the wines which best complement each new dish. At least six--and sometimes as many as two dozen--different wines are sampled with every recipe, in the search for a perfect pairing. After four and a half years, more than 20 menu changes and an equal number of pairing events, the chef's trust in his unusual method for wine selection is stronger than ever, as is his embrace of Island ingredients. It has paid off. Wine Spectator says he is one of America's greatest chefs. R.W. Apple of The New York Times calls him the “top mark in Hawai`i.” And this year, with his third nomination for the award, Mavro was named the Best Chef in the Northwest and Hawai`i by the James Beard Foundation. Buyouts at Chef Mavro generally take place on Mondays, when the restaurant is closed. Presentations, meetings, and receptions here are enhanced by a world-class dining experience, with multiple courses brought to the table by an attentive team of servers. Each taste is a delight, each pairing an intriguing surprise, each meal an unforgettable experience. “When people come for the first time, they're always, 'My God! What is going on?'” notes Mavro, his eyes twinkling. “Just because we don't have a banquet facility, we don't have a warmer.” His eyes twinkle. “Suddenly, the perception is different. People are so 'appy.”
Chef Mavro
1969 South King Street, Honolulu Average entrée: $37; menu also includes three prix-fixe menus (from $56 for 3 courses without wine, to $128 for 6 courses with wine) Capacity: About 70, including a small raised area suitable for a cocktail event for 30 Events: The restaurant is closed and available for buyouts on Mondays; ideal for weddings, rehearsal dinners, receptions, presentations, and incentive functions. During regular hours, Chef Mavro is a perfect place for business celebrations and client dinners for smaller groups of 10-12. Location: Centrally located at the intersection of South King and McCully Street in Honolulu, just five to 10 minutes by car from Waikiki, the Convention Center, Ala Moana Center, and the University of Hawai`i.
Recent Offerings:
Caroline Wright is a freelance writer. She can be reached at
c@wrightforyou.com.
CONTACT WRIGHT FOR YOU |